But if it's just one voltage reading during the middle of a constant current charging regime, it could be normal. It should also be noted that outside temperature affects the optimal charging voltage. So in a very hot climate, 13 volts could be normal, but then again in such climate, you can't expect the battery to have a long life.
The result was the "new" battery was unable to hold a charge after 7 months AND about a half dozen modules had low voltage DTCs and/or DTCs that could have been linked to low system voltage as well as some strange door lock behavior as well as some strange transmission shift mapping.
There is some confusion regarding the proper alternator output voltage. Some sources state that anything over 13 volts is acceptable. Others suggest that 13.4 volts or higher is the correct value. I believe the alternator output should be 14 volts or higher to effectively charge the battery. This may explain why I didn't encounter any issues until I parked and relied solely on the battery.
When the engine is off, the battery should test at 12.2-12.6 volts. With the engine running, the battery should read 14.0-14.5 volts. If the battery voltage is lower than that, it's likely that the alternator is the issue. Remember to check the belt and grounds before replacing the alternator.
For a lead-acid battery, it's charging at 14.4V, but once fully charged, the resting voltage of the battery itself will drop back down to about ~12.7V. This depends on battery chemistry, and other factors like ambient temperature. Li has a more flat voltage curve, so voltage is not as good an indicator of charge as for lead-acid.
The only reliable way to test the voltage of the battery itself is to leave it standing indoors (temp affects batteries) for about 8 hours after it's been charged and then check the voltage across the terminals. A fully charged battery in decent condition should give a voltage reading of 12.5v or more.
The only reliable way to test the voltage of the battery itself is to leave it standing indoors (temp affects batteries) for about 8 hours after it''s been charged and then check the …
The answer to your question is: no, this voltage is not normal, if it''s the final voltage. But if it''s …
The procedure for checking output voltage is at 2000rpm, but it still needs to …
If that voltage increases to the mid-13 range, you''re good to go. Someone else explained it better, but it''s something along the lines of the alternator only being active when …
To charge a battery, the voltage coming out of the alternator only has to be …
For a lead-acid battery, it''s charging at 14.4V, but once fully charged, the resting voltage of the battery itself will drop back down to about ~12.7V. This depends on battery …
In addition to the chemical reaction, higher-voltage batteries like a 12V battery have multiple cells in series to increase the voltage. A single AAA battery is only one cell, …
Well received two answers that I will respond to. First, for the first week to 10 days of having my solar system built and up, and with the exact same everything meaning the …
13.6 is a bit low and slowly killing battery but you need to measure the direct …
A perfect voltage (without any devices or electronic systems plugged in) is between 13.7 and 14.7V. If the battery isn''t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it''s only …
The autozone battery checker tool just said "voltage regulator poor" and suggested replacing …
I could only guess you might have a door contact or perhaps a bad bulb. I honestly have only guesses, but its not the batt or alt. ... Starting with the 2005 model year, …
A perfect voltage (without any devices or electronic systems plugged in) is between 13.7 and …
The autozone battery checker tool just said "voltage regulator poor" and suggested replacing the alternator. I asked if it said anything else but it had zero other info. I …
When your alternator produces only 13 volts, the battery will barely charge. And if this happens during one or two days, it will be more or less ok. But if this happens for a long time, the battery will lose all its juice and …
I bought a pair of renogy 100ah gel batteries, they both came with 12.7v out of the box, i have read that 12.8v its a good voltage for a resting battery, but i just read the specs …
The result was the "new" battery was unable to hold a charge after 7 months AND about a half dozen modules had low voltage DTCs and/or DTCs that could have been …
An alternator should be putting out 13.9-14.4 generally. with car sitting off, voltage shouldn''t drop below 12.4, or it means about half the capacity is gone and it''s time for a new battery. Also, if you do monitor it while driving, …
The answer to your question is: no, this voltage is not normal, if it''s the final voltage. But if it''s just one voltage reading during the middle of a constant current charging regime, it could be …
For a lead-acid battery, it''s charging at 14.4V, but once fully charged, the resting voltage of the battery itself will drop back down to about ~12.7V. This depends on battery chemistry, and other factors like ambient …
The smart shunt has nothing to do with charging. The parameters are for when the shunt determines when it synchronizes and displays 100%. Current dropping to "almost …
13.6 is a bit low and slowly killing battery but you need to measure the direct output voltage from the alternator with a multimeter >check all grounding in charge circuit if …
The battery voltage is usually around 12.x when this happens Turning off the motor and restart, and the lights are out, and the battery voltage is a bit higher in the low to …
To charge a battery, the voltage coming out of the alternator only has to be higher than the voltage in the battery. But, and very important, the alternator has to generate …